RIVER CROSSING
Not every moment of war involves action, guns, and glory. When I had the opportunity to present a more placid moment, even in a wartime situation, it was a welcome challenge. A client had sent me an interesting photograph (below) of a German SdKfz 8 halftrack towing a LfH 10.5cm howitzer crossing a river, and I was intrigued. One of the features of the photo that really caught my eye was the crew, all standing in the vehicle and appearing to enjoy the crossing in a rare light moment during a dark time. I began to design the diorama, but I quickly decided that having the vehicle mid-stream was kind of boring and lacked a frame of reference, so I came up with the idea of having the halftrack approaching the river bank. I also had two figures of children from Andrea called “Rascals” and I had to include them. The final concept was to have the halftrack and crew interrupting what was probably a relaxing day of boating for the kids. The diorama had a number of interesting challenges, and using the photo as a guide I began the construction.
This was the reference picture used to base the diorama on. I am uncertain of the source and cannot credit the author. If anyone knows the source of this picture, please let me know!!
PHILOSOPHY
I have always believed that model building is an art form, as valid as portrait painting or sculpture. I also believe that one can never build a model “wrong”, and use the basic idea that if one is happy with the model, it is a good model! My own technique has evolved over the 40 plus years I have been modeling, and is constantly changing. Even when creating projects for clients, I strive to satisfy myself.
THE MODELS
I’m not going to go into the history of either the halftrack or the gun, as they have been well covered by people far more knowledgeable than I! The only model of the SdKfz8 12 ton halftrack available (that I know of) is the hard to get resin kit from DES. This is one of the finest resin models I have yet to build. It includes a complete suspension with link-and-length track, a full engine, and folded tilt, all with superb detail. The only missing items are markings and a few grab bars that need to be made with rod. I built the model pretty much straight out of the box, adding only width poles, the grab handles, and brass reinforcements for the spotlight. I added the vehicle’s handles from brass rod bent using my trusty Mission Models GrabHandler. The photo shows the vehicle having the canvas half-doors erected and windshield folded down with a canvas cover installed. I made the canvas doors from lead foil, adding straps and attachment loops from the same materials and some tiny tie downs from Aber. I covered the kit part of the windshield with lead foil and textured it with green putty dissolved in liquid cement, adding some Model Kasten wing nuts to the ends.
The 10.5 cm LfH howitzer is the excellent AFV Models kit, to which I added only muzzle and breech covers from foil. The only modification I recommend for this kit is to reinforce the wheel’s axles with brass rod, as they tend to be rather weak and wobbly. I left off the gun sight, as this was most likely stowed during transport.
When painting models I always strive to achieve “depth”, that is, to replicate the effects of light and shadow in scale. I began with a base coat of Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black as a preshade. I then sprayed both models with Tamiya XF-63 German Grey, allowing the black base to show through in shadow areas. I then added a lightened mixture of the grey, highlighting with lighter tones on large panels. I followed with some very careful accenting of panel and shadow lines with a very dark grey mix. I usually add markings at this stage, which allows them to be weathered the same as the vehicle. The markings consisted of dry transfers from a variety of sources, with the rear vehicle width striping being done with decals. I noted that this particular vehicle had its license markings on the sides of the rear superstructure for some reason, unusual but interesting. I actually first thought these were rail transport weight markings, but a closer examination of the photo showed them as license plates.
My next step is to wash the vehicles to add more shadow depth and to tint the base coats. I use Sepia oil paint thinned in Turpenoid for grey and green based vehicles, rather than the Burnt Umber wash I use for brown or yellow based items. Using Burnt Umber on grey and green models tends to tint them too brown for my tastes. Sepia is a great color, almost black with just a hint of brown. This has the effect of adding depth to the model, while slightly warming the overall tone of the grey. After washing with the Sepia oil paint I allowed it to dry for a few days, then dry brushed with ever lightening tones of Humbrol greys. I added rain marks, rust streaks, and panel fading with a variety of oils, blending and streaking them, using the well known “spot” technique. A very thin pin wash of Sepia onto raised detail areas of the model was added before weathering.
I sprayed a light coat of very thin Tamiya Buff XF-57 to replicate dust, which was followed by some subtle applications of MMP powders thinned with alcohol. I also added some areas of mud using acrylic gel medium mixed with MMP powder, but only onto very select areas, as much of the mud would have washed off during the river crossing. I did not overdo the weathering as this appeared to be a vehicle in good condition. Very light scratches and areas of wear were made with Berol Prismacolor pencils, keeping it rather subdued.
I then began thinking about adding the wet areas and splash marks. I sprayed a piece of flat plastic with the Dark Grey mixture as a test bed. I usually use Testor’s lacquer clear paints as sealants, but these were much too harsh to be added in the quantity necessary to duplicate water, tending to dissolve even acrylic paints. I first tested straight Tamiya X-22 Clear Gloss, but the effect was not very dramatic. It made the paint shiny but flat painted surfaces will darken significantly when wet, and the straight gloss did not darken the tones at all. After trying and discarding Clear Smoke as too brown for the base of grey, I mixed a few drops of X-1 Gloss Black with Clear Gloss, thinning it about 50% with alcohol, and came up with a black tint that was perfect. It darkened the base coat and made it shiny, creating an overall effect that looked very much like a wet vehicle. I washed the “water” mixture onto fenders, tires, tracks, running gear and the lower superstructure, keeping in mind the natural flow and placement of liquid. I was much more generous with the “water” the lower I got on the model. I also added splash marks with a #1 Round paintbrush onto the hood, fenders and rear hull and included drip marks from raised areas. The same treatment was applied to the gun and I ended up with a very wet looking vehicle that was very pleasing.
FIGURES
I was trying to depict a “light-hearted” feel to the figures, as these guys are obviously in a rear area and appear relaxed. The figures were sourced from various manufacturers, but I mainly used Verlinden bodies with Hornet and Verlinden heads, seeking out smiling or laughing faces and mixing and matching arms. The driver is the “Dear Father” figure from Aires, the ONLY seated figure I have found wearing a German greatcoat. I also used two excellent Dragon bodies with Hornet heads. I wanted at least a few of the guys interacting with the children, and depicted two of them waving or calling out to them while the others look on or laugh. The only soldier not paying attention is the guy at the left rear, obviously the gunner, more concerned about the condition of his “baby”, which is being towed. I tried to match the figures with the poses in the photo and got pretty close, I think.
I did not want the kids to be waving back; rather I had them just stoically looking back at the soldiers, probably not knowing quite what to make of the scene and being very wary of the Germans. The seated child was originally depicted wearing a straw hat, which I felt was not appropriate for a European setting, so I sculpted some tousled hair from Milliput and also removed his shoes, adding bare feet from a Warriors Partisan figure. I had to sand down the feet as they were rather large for a child! The standing boy is straight out of the box.
The figures were all painted by airbrushing them in Tamiya acrylics. starting with a dark base tones, then adding lighter shades. I spray the lighter tones from above to create basic shading that can be followed by shading and highlighting with Humbrol paints and oils. Faces and skin tones are done with a base of Humbrol Flesh, followed by shading with oils. I found the kids in their civilian clothes far more difficult to paint and tried to choose some lighter and colorful tones for them.
The small boat comes from the Verlinden line, which I painted by first basing it in wood tones and dark washes, followed by a protective coating of Testors lacquer gloss. I then sprayed a light blue tone mixed from Tamiya colors, quickly scrubbing it with an old wet paintbrush from areas that would have been worn away by time. This resulted in a nicely worn out look, which was finished by washing with a mixture of brown oils, more colored pencil scratches, and finished with the name of the boat (Michele, my wife’s name). I finished by sealing the boat with lacquer flat clear. I also added some “mold” and stains with more oils, followed by mud and water at the bottom of the boat.
I built the rickety dock from basswood, trying to depict something that only a kid would climb on, with broken and missing slats. I scribed deeper wood grain onto the basswood to add depth, and drilled nail holes. The dock was painted in a base of grey followed by many different oil washes to get that “weathered look”. I also built a few broken off pieces to add, adding to the “Keep Off!” feel of the dock.
BASE AND WATER
The base is made by SPF Wholesale Specialty Plastics , and comes with a clear acrylic cover. I had to build up the sides with Evergreen plastic pieces to add depth for the ground work and water. The basic ground work consisted of a base of green “flower styrofoam”, which is soft and easy to shape. I covered the foam with acrylic gel medium mixed with MMP powders, cat litter, and various larger stones, spread and formed over the foam and sealed with thinned white glue. Vegetation was added using tall grass from Woodland Scenics, static grass, and some small flowers that I stole from one of my wife’s flower arrangements. I pressed the vehicles into the soft medium, then sprinkled a dry mix of litter and stones over the top, pressing them into the still wet medium, finishing by placing the dock and split off pieces buried into the mud.
I’ll be honest; I was very intimidated by the prospect of adding the water and did a lot of research on how to accomplish this. I knew that once the models were placed and the “water” poured, it was permanent and any mistake or damage to the model was going to result in disaster. I decided to use Envirotex Lite, a two part resin based product used mainly as a thick varnish in crafts. My research showed that Envirotex can be built into thick layers but tends to heat up while setting and is best poured in several shallow layers to avoid warping or damaging the models. I bought some really cheap measuring cups from the local “dollar” store to mix and pour the resin with. I placed the vehicle and gun into position (with much trepidation) and poured the first layer of resin. Because the “water” was fairly shallow, I did not bother to add any color or tint to the resin. I had no problem with heat build up as each layer was poured, needing about a half-quart of liquid per pour. This product takes about 4-5 hours to set and 24 hours to dry, time which allows some cool effects to be created. Because such a heavy vehicle would certainly stir up silt from the bottom of the river, I applied some light colored MMP powders to the surface of the resin, and used a scrap stick to mix it into the “water”, creating a natural flow of mud swirling about the two vehicles.
During the curing period, I simply placed the base’s clear acrylic top over the diorama, blocking potential dust and contaminants. Unfortunately, when I poured the second resin layer, this first area of mud swirls faded, so I added a much lighter powder color to the second layer and mixed it in. This ended up having a nice two-layer effect. The third and final layer had to depict the passage of the vehicles, with ripples and waves. Envirotex pours out about as thick as pancake syrup and dries perfectly level, so adding ripples and waves is a time-consuming affair. The final layer was poured, and then I spent several “thrilling” hours repeatedly using old paintbrushes to create ripples and wave effects. I would form the waves and troughs, only to watch them slowly sink back flat! After about three hours, the resin began to set up enough to allow the ripples and waves to stay in place. I also sprinkled some leaves and other flotsam onto the top of the water.
Finally, I had to add the white tops and “foamy” areas to the top of the water. Fresh water will not form long-lasting foam like sea water will, but a large vehicle like this halftrack would certainly stir things up, as evidenced by the photo, and without the “foam” the water appears flat and uninteresting. After some experimenting, I settled on using artist’s modeling gel, a very thick opaque medium that allows one to easily create modeled forms. I mixed in a small quantity of MMP white powder and applied the mixture to the natural wave and ripple tops, the wheels and running gear, and to the edge of the water approaching the shoreline.
I had originally added some tall reeds to the shore line, but my client didn’t like them and instead suggested using sunflowers. Do sunflowers grow on a river bank? I don’t know and I don’t care, and I thought it would be a good opportunity to add some color to the scene. Aber makes a photoetched set, but out of the box, it would not appear natural, because it consists only of flat shapes. The leaves are etched attached to a very thin strand and the flowers would end up flat, looking more like cut outs than real plants. I grow sunflowers during the summer and know what they look like. The flowers are made in two parts, so with a marble I lightly rolled the front of the flowers where the seedpod forms to add some dimension. I then wrapped the very thin strand that the leaves are attached to around a thicker piece of copper wire, coating it with thick putty. I formed the back of the flowers from Milliput and inserted the “stem” into it. I bent the leaves into more natural shapes, painted them with Tamiya colors, and shot them with semi-gloss clear. The flowers looked very natural and were a nice addition. A small tree made from “Super Trees” (sea foam plants) doused with spray mount, then dipped in Hudson and Allen leaves, was added to the shore.
The final late touch was the addition of two of Douglas Lee’s beautiful “Scared Geese” figures to the shore, fleeing from the approaching leviathan. I painted up some crew gear and pinned all of the figures to the vehicle and dock with brass rod for strength. I was pleasantly surprised that the Envirotex maintained a slight flexibility, making handling much easier.
CONCLUSION
I try to learn from each project I do, and I would probably change a few things. The bank is probably a little steep and I was not completely happy with some of the foliage. But overall, it ended up being a very pleasant experience, and one which I learned a lot doing. The models were great to assemble and it was nice not doing a grim “combat” scene. Pouring the resin “water” was a little scary, but I would not hesitate to create a water scene again.
